November 04, 2009

こるまめ

 ぼくの故郷は九州・熊本だ。
 熊本には昔から納豆(糸を引くので“ねば納豆”などと呼ばれている)がある。
 どれぐらい昔からかというと、たぶん加藤清正の時代からだ。
 糸引き納豆は東日本の食文化であり、近年まで西日本では食べなかった。全国に徐々に広がっていくのは、先の戦争で兵食に出され、その美味さを知って、なおかつ戦争を生き抜いた人たちが持ち帰ってからだとされているが、ではなぜそれ以前から熊本にはあったのか……その推察については拙著『朝めしの品格』(アスキー新書)に書いた。

 その話ではありません。
 納豆文化圏の熊本に生まれ育って、子どもの頃から好きだったものに干し納豆があった。『こるまめ』という商品名で、ねば納豆を干したものだ。何かの折りに調べたところ、農村地域での“納豆の保存食”だったそうだが、白い粉(小麦粉)にまみれていて(ひっつかない工夫だろう)、味はちょっとピリリとした塩味(パッケージを見ると原材料名に「唐辛子エキス」とある)、干し納豆だから食感はコリコリしていて、だから「こるまめ」なのだと思っていた。
 当時はどう食べていたのか。未成年だもの、まさか酒の肴にしていたわけはないから、お茶漬けに入れたり(少しふやけてうまい)、何もなくて口寂しいときにポリポリ囓っていたのだろう。

 やがて上京。ずっと「こるまめ」のことは忘れていたのだが、ある時にふいに思い出し、東京で探したのだが見つからない。いや、水戸納豆のやつとか干し納豆はあるんです。でも、何か違う。うまく言えないけれども、やっぱり熊本の「こるまめ」がうまか。
 一方、ぼくの弟は地元の大学を卒業後、地元にあるスーパーに就職していた。そこで弟に、「こるまめば送ってほしか」と頼んだら、「何であんなもんを」と訝しがりながらも送ってくれた……いや、それ以前に帰郷した折り、買い込んで帰ったのが最初だったか……いまとなっては憶えていない。

 以降、ハコで送ってもらったこともあるし、弟が子どもたちを連れてディズニーランド観光にきたときには手土産で10袋ばかり持ってきた。一時、みのもんたの番組で取り上げられ、頼んだのに送られてきたのは半年あまりだったことだったこともある。普通の納豆に比べ、いまはあまり食べないので生産量が少ないのだという。

 そうしたときに「朝めし」について書くことになり、挿絵というか誌面のにぎやかしの絵も描かねばならなくなったので、「納豆編」では、こるまめのパッケージを描いた。そのときにいろいろ調べていて、「こるまめ」とは「香る豆」が転じたものであり、熊本ではもともと納豆のことを「こるまめ」と呼んでいたことなどを知った。

 そして昨年2月、それらをまとめて『朝めしの品格』というタイトルで出版するに当たり弟に告げたところ、さすが地元のスーパーの店長(といっても、あとはパートさんばかりだったそうだが)、『こるまめ』の社長は知っているというので、こっちのスケベ心もあって社長さんへの献本を頼んだら、10冊か20冊かのお買いあげがあったらしい。
 しかし、同時に『こるまめ』は生産中止にするとも弟から聞いたのだった。

 つい最近のこと。夜、弟から電話があった。
 何事かと思ったら、しばらく熊本でも別の市のスーパーに赴任していたのだけれども、熊本市内の大きな店舗に転任になったので、「今度帰ってきたら、この間帰ってきたとき(3年ほど前に久々に帰って、墓参りの案内など弟に迷惑をかけた)より、もう少し自由になるから」という報告だった(泣)のだが、そのあとにこう言った。
「そうそう、『こるまめ』の生産が再開したと。兄ちゃんの本のせいかもしれんね」

 そぎゃんこつはなかと思うばってんが、また頼むぞ。

 試してみたい人は、東京ではたぶん銀座の「銀座熊本館」
 http://www.kumamotokan.or.jp/
 で買える。

(07:53)

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